Wednesday, October 7, 2009

A Bend in the Road


Vivian here.

We woke up to a gentle snow shower. Phil had the stove fired up and the coffee brewed before I got dressed, reminding me of so long ago in Denver when he was called the "Breakfast King." He outdid himself for the last big breakfast with bacon, eggs, and gargantuan pancakes with trail mix and bananas for topping plus orange juice and coffee. I'm happy to say we're finishing up things in our larder pretty well.

I had an encounter with Phil's Blackberry trying to email my friend Ruth about the Dudamel concert at Disney Hall that she has tickets too. Downtown L.A. seems more than a million miles from here. Anyway, after many false starts and interrupting Phil from his writing once or twice, I finally managed to get the message to her that I couldn't make it. The manager of the place stopped by to say he had to "clear the sprinklers" and we went down to general store while he did his work. Turns out he had to plow through our pile of dirty clothes to get to the crawl space. Oops!

We did a circuit of the towns on the outskirts of Glacier National Park under a gray sky that occasionally sputtered out a little snow. At last, we glimpsed the much touted Flathead Lake and it is every bit as big as everyone promised us it would be. Bigfork is very self consciously prettified and clustered around a bay. We also happened by Eagle Rest, the premiere golf destination of Montana. Coincidence? You be the judge.

We cruised through Kalispell again and got a better sense of the layout. The old downtown has its charms but it's surrounded by a sprawl of franchises. Then we headed up to Whitefish and had a slice of pizza at Downtown Pizzeria and some coffee at Montana Coffee Traders. Whitefish is certainly not as developed at Kalispell, but it has enough business not to seem depressed.

I can feel myself pulling away from this place, wondering if I'll ever pass this way again. Its beauty is compelling but also remote and well sad. It makes our little human plans and schemes seem so petty.

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